Cantina del Pino

Barbaresco - The Role of the Wind

The Ovello vineyard is situated directly on the Tanaro River and is thus the first elevation next to the wide riverbed, which means that the cool winds from the Alps have a particularly strong influence here. From the very first step into the vineyard, you can feel the fresh breeze, which, according to the local winemakers, is primarily responsible for the differences compared to Barolo. This is because the soil formations in Ovello and Albesani—the second hill from the riverbed—are characterized by heavy clay with a high limestone content, much like many of Barolo’s top sites. Combined with the old vines and the wind—which is both cooling and drying—the conditions for great Nebbiolo couldn’t be better. The delicate style of Cantina del Pino reveals the differences between the sites down to the finest detail, and the two sites mentioned here are the perfect example of this, as they lie right next to each other and share a similar soil profile.

Traditional style with a unique twist

The grapes are harvested when fully ripe, yet this wine still represents one of the most elegant styles in the entire region. Of course, the terroir plays a part, but so does the very delicate handling of the challenging Nebbiolo grapes. Vinification follows the traditional style, and the wine is aged exclusively in large, used oak barrels. In vinifying their Barbarescos, Franca and Renato have developed their own style: one tank is always fermented traditionally, with 40–60 days on the skins and the cap kept submerged. A second tank is processed using a more modern method, with contact with the must limited to the duration of fermentation—approximately two weeks. This results in two distinct base wines: the traditional one, with more tannins and concentration, and the modern one, with more freshness and juiciness.

The Barbarescos are all powerful, yet they come across as elegant and delicate, with a refined structure and a gripping, chalky texture. The more robust Galina and Albesani vineyards offer greater power and fullness, and their aromas lean more toward spicy notes and balsamic tones. The standard Barbaresco—which is made primarily from grapes from the Ovello vineyard—and the single-vineyard Barbaresco of the same name are more austere, bluish, and elegant in character. The entry-level wines are vinified in a style very true to the variety, with short maceration times and aging in neutral containers such as stainless steel and concrete. These wines offer fine structure and lively juiciness and are hard to beat in terms of value for money.